2007-Nov-7 - Thats Turkey for you!
Lets see if you can guess where I am :) Im sitting in a very comfortable recliner type seat in an area that is carpeted from wall to wall. To my right is a large sparkling clean window, through which I am viewing the Agean sea. The temperature outside, according to the temperature gauge located near the window, is 8C but Im nice and warm with a heater at my feet and I have just finished tea and cake served by a young man in a white shirt, black trousers and wearing a bowtie. There is softly playing Turkish music in the background and two LCD screens nearby which I can watch a DVD on later. Guessed yet??? OK one more clue - the driver is Turkish and has a moustache!! Yes folks this is travel by Turkish bus ... a far cry from the "bus ride from hell" experience in Asia and other less selubreous rides in other locations. Travel by bus here is fast, comfortable and reasonably priced.
After four days in Istanbul I am now in the process of moving on to Canakkale, the cloest town to the Gallipoli campaign area. Its about a six hour trip and I intend to stay there for a couple of days before heading to Cemes on the coast where one can begin to island hop through the Greek Islands to the mainland or beyond.
Istanbul as a city is not all that impressive to view - dunn coloured, dirty and with a scattering of historical buildings interspersed between the modern. As a rule it is not all that cheap either but once the sun goes down and you can view the floodlite mosques, smell the cooking aromas, and listen to the constant banter from the various vendors and doormen when wandering the ancient city streets ... it becomes a whole new world. To date I have found the Turksih people to be nothing but friendly, outgoing and approacable, but I would also keep a close eye on my watch when they shake hands! Scamming money from tourists seems to be a bit of a game played with a smile and a "nothing personal" air about it ... you have money and we'll see if I can get it ... and if they get caught out there are profuss apologies and smiles all around. The local bar I have been drinking at is a good example. All drinks and food are on tick, and you had better remember exactly what you have spent. I have seen a number of people question the short change given or the number of pints charged for ... followed by apologies by the barman for his poor math!!
I was even sucker punched myself the other night by this lovely old Turkish guy. Mind you in the end, the advice and experience he gave me probably compensated for having to pay his restuarant bill!! I had decided to take an evening out to photograph the two brilliantly lite mosques, the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sophia, which are prime attractions in Istanbol and only 5 mins walk from where I am staying. While out this old Turksih guy introduced himself and told me he had been to NZ some years ago (most turks you speak to appear to have at least one friend there, as they ingratiate themselves, just before they try to sell you something!!) and he invited me to view and photograph the Istanbul skyline "that generally only well heeled tourists" can gain access to. He "knew" people you see. I was abit iffy about this at first, as you never really know where you might end up, but he seemed friendly enough and no, I would not be eating any potentially drug laced cookies offered when we arrived in some dark alley!!
He took me on a bit of a guided tour to some monuments and buildings nearby, explaining about them as we went. We then arrived at this posh restaurant and he gave me a hotel pass with the explanation of showing this to anyone who might enquire. Then it was up to the top floor "Skyline Restaurant" in the elevator. Here he introduced me to the Maitra'd who was full of smiles and took me out to the balcony to view the most fantastic city skyline you could hope to see. It was magnificant, both sides of the Bosphurous illuminated from the bridges to the sea, and all the mosques in their lighted up glory, without one tree or lampost obscuring the view for a change. Then it was off for a view of the famouse underground cisterns, where again he knew someone and I had a private tour (although I was told we had to be quick because "someone" might arrive back!!). All the time he had been chattering on about his business interests, his family in Finland where he usually lives, his life as a child in Istanbul and his job as a Maratime Engineeer -- so natural the next thing was to go and have coffee together "at a very nice cafe I know" where he would point out other places to see (on the map he had given me). In whole we spent an enjoyable 4hrs together. Aaah ha ... then comes the sting. When the bill, which appeared to be rather inflated, arrived, I realized for the first time that I had eaten WITHOUT checking the prices, which I rarely do. He then aplogised profusly because he didn't have his wallet on him and could I please pay the bill (+ tip and a packet of cigarettes!!) and we would split it tomorrow. Well what could one say. Needless to say when I went to meet him the next day at his shop, he was "out". Still it was an interesting night, and his sight seeing tips along with the "tour" were in the end probably worth the extra twentyfive bucks I ended up forking out :)
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